Sorrento/Amalfi Coast

SORRENTO

I went to Sorrento for the first time in 2004 and immediately fell in love with it. Now, this is saying a lot because this trip was an Italian Greatest Hits Trip. We did all the “biggies”; Venice, Rome, Florence, and Naples. Sorrento wasn’t even on my radar. I’d never heard of it. A chance recommendation on a train would change my travel plans and shift my course from Naples to Sorrento.

Sorrento hits all five senses at once. You step off the train or out of your airport transfer and become instantly entranced by the smell of lemons, the views of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius, and the sounds of old Italian men having their afternoon espresso.

Even though you’ve gotten out of a major city and landed in an amazing place, such as Sorrento, continue to explore. Get out of Piazza Tasso. Sure it’s got a great view of the bay, but so do so many other places in this town. Drop off your luggage and start meandering through the maze of tiny streets that cars aren’t “supposed” to go down. It’s filled with shops of all kinds; linen, chocolate, ornaments, gelato, and of course limoncello. One of the most magical nights of my life was when we accidentally came upon the courtyard of the Chiostro di Francesco to discover a string quartet playing a free concert.

UPDATE SUMMER 2022: Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast are incredibly overcrowded right now. If it’s on your bucket list, I’d delay visiting for a couple of years for it to settle down. This summer had vacationers from cancelled 2020 and 2021 trips, as well as the usual amount of tourists from 2022. For those of you from the New England area of the States, it felt like we were walking around the Big E. I’m hopeful that after another year or two of regularly planned trips, as well as makeup trips from Covid, that it will be less crowded.

SORRENTO POINTS OF INTEREST

• Piazza Tasso: This is the main square and a good meeting point for tours.
• Corso Italia: Has more traditional shopping, such as pharmacies and groceries.
• Chiostro di Francesco Address:  Via S. Francesco, 12, 80067 Sorrento (only open at night)
• Marina Piccola: Use the Sorrento Lift – Via S. Francesco, 1, 80067 Sorrento
• Marina Grande: Has some excellent restaurants, but is very hard to get to.  
• Linen: There is an endless supply of linen shops. Compare prices before you make a purchase.

SORRENTO FOOD

• Best Aperitivo Spots: Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – Piazza Torquato Tasso, 34, Sorrento and D’Anton Design and Bistrot– Piazza Sant’Antonino, 3-4, Sorrento
• Best Panini: A’Marenna- Via Torquato Tasso, 23, Sorrento
• Best Gelato: Fresco Sorrento- Via Fuoro, 27, Sorrento
• Best Arancini: Bar Rita- Corso Italia, 219, Sorrento
• Best Breakfast: MoMo- Piazza Sant’Antonino, 16, Sorrento
• Yummy Dinner Spots: Il Buco– 2ª Rampa Marina Piccola, Piazza Sant’Antonino, 5, Sorrento, Trattoria dei Mori– Via S. Nicola, 20, Sorrento, O’Murzill– Via dell’Accademia, 17, Sorrento, I Giardino di Tasso – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 30, Sorrento, and O’Parrucchiano La Favorita– Corso Italia, 71, Sorrento
  

SORRENTO HOUSING

• If money’s no object, stay at the 
• Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria: Booking.com or Hotel Bellevue Syrene: Booking.com
• For more reasonably priced options: I would recommend:
• Booking.com
• Airbnb.com

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DAY TRIPS FROM SORRENTO 

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ISCHIA

After many years of being told that Ischia should be added to my “must-see” list, we finally got to go and I can unequivocally say that the hype is for good reason. Ischia is known as L’isola Verde (the green island) because of its natural beauty. It has a little bit of everything- gorgeous coastline, thermal baths, stunning mountainous regions, and the best tomatoes you’ve ever eaten.

There are ferries twice a day from Sorrento to Ischia. I recommend staying over at least one night: https://www.naplesbayferry.com/it/t/sorrento/ischia

ISCHIA FOOD

• Best Lunch: La Grotta da Fiore- via Epomeo, 21, Serrara Fontana. You will have to hike the summit of Mt. Epomeo to get this lunch, but it is worth it! They serve the best bruschetta in the world. Take a cab up as far as you can go and then it’s another 30 minute steeeeeeep hike from there.
• Best Dinner: La Cantinola di Zio Jack- via Santa Maria al Monte, 22, Forio. Also set in the mountains, Zio Jack is a unique experience. You must make a reservation because they are so far up the mountains that typical cars can’t get to them and they have to come pick you up in a special 4-wheeled vehichle. The food is amazing! UPDATE: Temporarily closed due to a landslide.
• Cool Dinner: Taverna Janto- via Grande Sentinella, 32, Casamicciola Terme. This stunning restaurant, set inside the Paradise Relais hotel, is delicous and has one of the best views on the island.

ISCHIA HOUSING

We stayed at Grifo Hotel– Parnaso dello Spalatriello, 28, Casamicciola Terme. We loved the Grifo. The hotel is situated in the perfect location on the island, has a beautiful pool, wonderful views, and the friendliest staff.

POMPEII

This is a must-do while visiting Sorrento. It’s amazing to see a town that was created thousands of years ago have such infrastructure. The easiest way to get there is to take The Circumvesuviana train from the Sorrento to the Pompeii Scavi stop. You can buy tickets at the train station in Sorrento. Make sure to buy your return ticket at the same time. Be VERY aware of your surroundings on this train. Keep your head on a swivel for pickpockets!

Pompeii Tickets and Info

NAPLES

Naples is the main connection to get to Sorrento. You will most likely need to fly into Naples or take a train into Napoli Centrale (Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi). You have a few options for getting there.

Here’s the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly:

• The Good: Take a private transfer. It’s worth every $$- Sun Transfers: https://www.suntransfers.com/ UPDATE 2023: I use Suntransfers every summer, usually multiple times a summer, and have since 2017. This year, for the first time, I had a negative experience with them in Rome. Although this is an isolated experience, I do think it’s important for people to be diligent and to trust your gut if something seems off.
• The Bad: A seasonal train with luggage storage and air conditioning: The Campania Express. This is a great, mid-range priced option. The difficulty is getting info on it. I’ve attached their website. https://www.eavsrl.it/web/campania-express-en Good luck understanding it!
• The Ugly: A regional train with no luggage storage and no air conditioning: The Circumvesuviana- I previously mentioned this train in the Pompeii section. Only this time, in addition to watching your pockets on the quick, 30-minute ride to Pompeii, you’re wrangling your luggage, on a non-air-conditioned train, that lasts about an hour and a half. I simply won’t take this option from Naples anymore and neither should you. Life’s too short!

CAPRI

In 2004, I thought Capri was amazing. In 2018, I couldn’t wait to get off the island. Similar to how I’ve come to feel about Cinque Terre and Positano, some places get discovered and aren’t the same during the peak times. However, I got into an adorable open-air taxi and took a ride across the island to Marina Piccola. It was like a breath of fresh air! The overcrowding I saw in Marina Grande was done and it was replaced with a calmness and beauty.  If you go to Capri during the peak season, take my advice and get out of the main area! Find a restaurant on the other side that doesn’t have pictures on the menu. Trust me, you’ll thank me!

Ischia is the “New Capri”, as in the same Capri that I fell in love with 14 years ago. That being said, GO TO CAPRI IN THE OFF SEASON!

TIPS FOR EXPLORING CAPRI BY BOAT:

• Ferry: https://www.naplesbayferry.com/en/t/sorrento/capri
• Private Boat Company: https://www.capitanoago.com/en/capri-group-excursion 
• You can also do a combo and take the ferry over to Capri and then find a private boat tour. That’s usually the cheapest option.
• Avoid Marina Grande as much as you can and take a 30 euro taxi to the other side of the island, either to Marina Piccola or Anacapri. THAT BEING SAID, I’ve only seen private boat tours leave out of Marina Grande. So, you may need to divide your time if you want a boat tour around the island and peaceful times on the island. 

AMALFI COAST: RAVELLO, AMALFI, AND POSITANO

The drive from Sorrento along the Amalfi Coast is breathtaking! For this reason, you don’t want to be the one stuck driving the car while everyone else wows, ooohs, and aaahs. If you’re on a budget, there are buses that will take you to the towns along the Amalfi coast. There are also ferries that will take you to Positano and Amalfi, but none of the smaller towns, like Ravello. If you’re being mindful of spending, put money aside to hire a driver for the day. It’s worth every penny.

• Driver: http://www.sorrentointour.com/en/positano-amalfi-ravello
• Ferries: https://www.naplesbayferry.com/en/t/sorrento/positano  
  

RAVELLO

Ravello is one of the smaller towns on the coast, which happens to be one of my best friend’s favorite towns in all of Italy. It has a charm to it.  There is a beautiful church in the center of town and Villa Rufolo as you enter the town from the main road. I didn’t spend too much time here, but I’ve heard it has adorable shops and yummy food, of course! http://www.villarufolo.it/home.html

AMALFI

When you first get to Amalfi you’re surprised at the rock beach. From there, you walk up the hill into town and start to see adorable shops and restaurants. Out of nowhere, on the right, is this amazing duomo! If you’re fit enough, climb up the million stairs and take a look. In a country filled with cool churches, this one is worth the hike.

Lunch place between Amalfi and Positano: Best seafood risotto I’ve ever had!: Ristorante Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra- antica trattoria Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 21, Amalfi

POSITANO

When you think of the Amalfi Coast, you’re probably imagining Positano. It’s stunning, has great shopping and yummy food. Built into the cliffside of the country, this is your quintessential tourist town, as in EVERYONE IS VISITING THERE AT THE SAME TIME! The difference between when I went in 2004 and 2018 made me sad. Similar to Cinque Terre, some of its allure has been ruined by its allure. Positano is simply stunning and can’t be missed. Go offseason to avoid the crowds. It’s just as beautiful in October as it is in August, with much fewer visitors.